DUCASSE AT LE MEURICE

Following the departure of Yannick Alleno for the Left Bank and Courchevel, the Meurice’s 3-Michelin starred kitchens are now managed by the gastronomic superstar Alain Ducasse. (Ducasse is also at the head of another Parisian palace, btw, currently closed for renovations, the Plaza Athenée.) Within the majestic marble-lined dining room of the fine-dining restaurant, head chef Christophe Saintagne interprets the unfussy, pure style of Ducasse, ‘which turns simple into good’, and with a focus firmly on seasonal produce. This contemporary vision is expressed from the start with a pot of vegetables – leeks, carrots, onions, turnips – simply cooked on a salt crust and presented to share for the appetiser. The autumn menu continues then to explore exceptional ingredients including the white truffle or game such as venison or partridge. The table is also a stage for some beautiful tableware including original creations by Pieter Stockmans or Shinichiro Ogata. The whole experience is a sort of condensation of everything Paris can offer in terms of a precise, refined and pleasurable experience.
Open for Mon-Fri for lunch and dinner. 5 course set menu 380€. A la carte approx 250€ per head + wine.
Hôtel Le Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli, 1st. 01 44 58 10 55. www.lemeurice.com

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